The Tulsa Forum by TulsaNow

Flat, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss and all that other crap.  What's the difference?  If you were painting an accent wall in a living room, what kind would you use?  How about a kitchen or bathroom?

Is it weird to paint an accent wall in a living room, and also one in a kitchen, where just because of line of sight, both walls would be visible?

I understand latex paint, roughly.  What other types are there, what would be best?  I've never painted before.

Start here...from my website...

http://www.metrecycle.com/education/steps_to_recycling/latexp.htm

PAINT FACT SHEET
Buying:
Important issues to consider when buying paint are the amount and type.

1. Buy latex paint; it is the most environmentally friendly and will work the best for most projects.

2. Buy only what you need.
One gallon of paint will cover about 400 square feet of interior surfaces and about 300 square feet of exterior surfaces. To calculate area, measure the length of each wall, add the lengths together and then multiply that sum by the height of the wall (floor to ceiling).

3. Don’t forget that you can buy paint in different quantities, from quart to gallon.

4. Instead of buying a basecoat, take the bits of leftover paint that you have and mix them together. Make sure that they are the same kind (don’t mix latex and oil) and that they are the same type (don’t mix glossy and matte).

Using:
Make sure to read and follow directions for proper usage and safety measures.

1. Use it up. ALL OF IT! Storage and disposal are only an issue if you don’t use up all of the paint you buy. Think of locations you are likely to clean, like around a light switch, and paint an extra coat. If you have young children, paint an extra coat on the lower half of the wall where they are likely to draw.

2. Use it up! It’s worth repeating. Find a doghouse or fence or inside of a garage wall and paint them. Don’t stop painting until your can is empty!

3. An extra coat of paint never hurt anything, so paint up.

Storage:
Paint colors fade over time, so saving it for “touch-ups” really doesn’t work. New technologies make matching paint easy and precise, eliminating most of the reasons we have for storing paint. However, if you do store it, follow these tips:

1. Store paint above freezing. This is especially important in Oklahoma with our inconsistent winter temperatures. Three cycles of freeze-thaw will ruin latex paint.

2. Store paint away from other chemicals and away from children’s toys and recreational equipment.

3. While you are painting, place some of the paint on the lid or outside of the can so it is easier to identify the color in the future.

4. Write with a marker on the can the date the can was opened and what surface you painted.

5. A proper seal is essential to keeping stored pain useable. To help create an airtight seal, place some plastic wrap over the top of the paint can before putting the lid back on. Once the lid is secure, turn the can upside-down. This will help create a seal to make the paint last longer.

Disposal:
Full or nearly full cans of paint can be given away to non-profits for home remodeling or to theater groups for set design.

1. Small amounts of latex paint can be dried out (EXCEPT on Ozone Alert! Days) and thrown away in the garbage.

2. A medium amount of latex paint can be dried out using wood chips or cat litter. Additionally, paint hardeners can be purchased at many paint stores.

3. Oil, hobby, and other specialty paints can be brought to the M.e.t.’s free, twice-a-year pollutant collection event. Check our website, MetRecycle.com, to find out when the next event is scheduled.

4. If you cannot wait for the next event, call the M.e.t. office, 584-0584, for other local fee based disposal companies.

5. Dry or empty containers can be thrown in the trash. A container is considered “empty” if no paint pours out when it is held upside down, or any paint remaining in the container cannot be removed by chipping or scraping.

Helpful Sites:

Lowes.com
KellyMoore.com
http://162.42.246.43/Paint.html (this is the DIY network’s paint calculator)
PaintQuality.com
AnchorPaint.com

Then go here...

http://www.paint.org/con_info/brochures.cfm

Don't try to save any for touchup...keep painting till the paint is gone.

Yes, based on some of your comments earlier today you do have some understanding of latex. [:P]

You won't be happy w/ flat on an interior wall- it can't be cleaned very easy.  Probably eggshell or satin would be best, semi gloss maybe though that can give you a shine or glare, I prefer that for trim paint.

You want a smoother finish on walls so you can clean off scuffs and the like.  Not only that I have the whole "chalkboard gives me the creeps thing" that drives me nuts when I touch flat paint.

Leave flat for ceilings.

I know some people swear by oil-base paints, but I hate the clean-up and the smell, though if you are going over a darker old color in the house, you are best to use oil-based Kilz first.

Latex cleans up with water, and to get rid of it, just leave the lid off and let it dry out.

As far as brands, I wasn't any more impressed with Behr when I painted an entire house interior this last year than I'd been with Anchor or other less expensive brands on other projects in the past.

It is odd that latex is used in paint and condoms.

Couldn't you just have a can by the bed?  Dip it in, run a fan over it and good to go.

quote:

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Originally posted by recyclemichael

It is odd that latex is used in paint and condoms.

Couldn't you just have a can by the bed?  Dip it in, run a fan over it and good to go.

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Did you not read your post above?  You ARE NOT supposed to store latex paint!!!!

lol

Good stuff.

Latex, satin finish.  

Now, If i were painting a wall in the living room sort of a darker red color, and another wall say a sort of goldish color in the kitchen.  Two completely separate walls, but you can look past the red wall to see the other.  They're about maybe 12 or 15 feet away from each other.  Would that look odd?

All other walls would be an off white.

Nevermind, I'll think I might just go right on ahead with the second wall too.  I'm getting ready to do some remodeling and redecorating.

This has been a bigger issue for me though:

How about laminate flooring?  Anyone know anything about that?  Is it pretty easy to put down, does it last a while?  Does it work well when placed over linoleum?  Do I need to rip that crap up?  Or should I just go with self-adhesive tile?

Keep in mind red is the hardest color to paint. I used 5 gallons in my living room which is not large. I used semi-gloss because I have kids and it wears better.

I've just got to jump in here. My father was a painting contractor and I spent many summers painting homes and apartments in Tulsa.

First, consider hiring a good painter.

Second, the sheen is entirely taste. Whereas Conan dislikes flat, I think it looks good under certain circumstances. Gloss hurts my eyes, satin is a compromise, egg shell is a degree of satin. If you don't know a decorator, designer type person, get lots of Ladies magazines, decorator mags and stuff like that.

Anchor is good, Behr is fine, but my favorite right now is Kilz brand interior satin (latex). Easy to roll or brush, doesn't splash and I can't emphasize enough how great the container is! Has built in non drip pourer and seals for later use real well. Available at local Wal-Mart. Oil base is great but not worth the trouble and expense for most folks. Suitable for bathrooms and kitchens because of its durability.

Oh, yeah, don't forget to make sure your roller has the right nap. If you have plaster walls you might not want a deep nap, to keep it smoother use short nap. Also match the brush shape, size and bristle to the type paint. Stay away from the foam stuff. Consider a good painter.

Lastly, I don't know how old your house is but beware of the linoleum. Old style, pre sixties, was laden with asbestos. Doesn't matter if you're old like me, the stuff won't bother you for about 15years or so.[;)]

Enjoy!

Since everyone's been asking for more comments on the forum, I'll throw mine in as well.

Kitchens/Bathrooms I'd stay far away from flat, really I'd only use that for ceiling.  In my first house, which was older, we used a semi-gloss in the kitchen, made for easy clean up and worked there.  It was a dark wine color, if that mattered, i don't know.

We used satin on other walls.  Flat just seems to wipe off whenever you need to clean it.  They used it in our new construction home and with two very young kids, I HATE it.  Oh well, no need to paint it again for a few years.

Have fun, we've always painted ourselves and enjoyed it.

Don't know much about laminate, both houses we've had Oak hardwoods, dreamy, but I think pretty pricey to install the first time.  I love NOT having carpet though.  

Good luck

Behr acrylic eggshell on the walls. Is easy to clean, doesnt give you that dull, dry, chalky look flat does. Is good for every room. Semigloss or gloss for the trim. As for the accent walls. Would just have to see the space and the look you were going for. Interesting that the other walls are white though? And yes, be careful with the red color. The brighter and stronger the red, the more "translucent" the paint becomes and unless you use a proper basecoat color or colored primer underneath, you will be in for several coats. The room I am in now I used a textured stuccoe, then used a "peachy,orangy gold" basecoat then rubbed a cranberry red over it. The effect is stunning, you can get a "color" with layers that you cant get with only one color. Dont be afraid of color, go ahead and do a whole room with it. However, another way to add a pop of color without using the accent wall option is to do a wainscotting. Get some inexpensive trim, go 32" up from the floor, and paint your darker color below that and a lighter, complimentary color above. Another rule of thumb. Whenever you do a color in a room especially a medium to light shade, go at least 2 shades lighter on the ceiling with the same color. Gives a room a more sophisticated, finished look versus just ceiling white, though may do that with a red and certainly not for just an accent wall. Have fun and remember, its only paint.

Latex Satin is usually a pretty safe bet for most interior wall applications. I like the bamboo laminate flooring. The degree of difficulty for installation depends a lot on how square and true your rooms are.

Well, I ended up painting both walls.  One is kind of a goldish semi-gloss latex in the kitchen maybe a "Sunflower" kind of color.  Living room, went dark red satin latex.  No kidding about the several coats, that red wall took some serious paint.  

BUT, I'm very impressed so far.  It's made a huge difference.

I've been hesitant to paint an entire room.  If I go after an entire room, might be a bedroom or bathroom.  Though I've really like the colors we've picked out so far, I think I'm afraid of swamping one room.  May have to give more thought to color choices.  Need something light, and different I think.  It won't be anywhere near the other colors, but I just can't think of another color that I really must have right now.

Oh, and I'm working to get rid of excess paint.  Got a few options there.  Thanks for the ideas.

Decided on going with a laminate floor, got all the stuff but haven't started that project yet.  Basically, I decided I'd rather use a saw than tote around a 100 lb tile roller.  Lazy perhaps, but I get to use power tools.

Holy bejesus!  This thread was made for me!

As we speak all my furniture is stuffed into our den and garage as we put in laminate flooring and paint the walls.  I have too much experience in painting interiors but never installed flooring before.  It has been a fun week.

Paint:

Our walls were off-white, with white ceilings, white vents, white carpet, and white tile.  The previous owner was Tom Wolfe but clearly had no dogs, children, or zest in their life.  So we eventually broke down.

Now our walls are "Arabic Sands," which, as the name applies, is about the color of sand.  Thing light tan with a hint of pink.  We have one long wall connecting our dining room and living room that goes nearly 40' uninterrupted - that wall is now redish (same color as the "V" on the cover of slaughter house five - coincidentally).  It actually abuts another accent wall that is between the dining room and the kitchen and then wraps into the entry way - that one is Sun Flower Yellow (a deep goldish yellow).  And yet a third wall in that room is finished with wood slats behind a brick fireplace... plenty going on  but you'll have to trust me - it looks good.

Though, I think it only works because the room is so large and really is two rooms (though not divided).  Will post pictures when its all really done.

Latex.  Everyone uses latex for many, many reasons.  The most common for interior is semi-gloss because of the ease of cleaning.  We chose semi-gloss for all areas partly for that reason and also because it help brighten a room.  IMHO, flat is lifeless - but eggshell or other nonglossy finishes can look sophisticated.  

Its doubtful you need to hire a professional.  If you do not mind investing the time - and as a novice probably redoing a few things.  A few keys:  

1) Prep time saves time.  Moving furniture, a drop cloth, and tape will save you infinite time and headache in the future.   Spend the extra buck and get the good tape.

2) More coats!  When it doubt, use 2 (or more) coats.  Sometimes even a base coat is needed to get the color to look correctly.  Basically, you need to paint to make it look nice and not to cover in one coat.  If you get a drip or so heavy that it runs you have to SAND it down and repaint.  Not cool.

3) Cleanup.  Make sure you clean up as thoroughly as possible.  Excess paint left on a roller or brush will dry (duh) and permanently ruin the brush.  Dropping $10 extra each day on a brush eats up cash fast.

Laminate Flooring:

Easy to install assuming you are handy with a saw.  The floor itself is cake, cutting around door frames and multiple doors in hallways is a pain in the donkey.   However, I am by no means a skilled carpenter and manager this task by myself.

If you are considering laminate, go no lower than AC3 (hardness rating) and remember that it will scratch if you try hard enough.  No shoes, pads on all furniture, etc.  Also, if you shop on the internet it is possible to find good deals and most retailers will send you samples for a nominal fee.

I could go into many, many more details... so ask if curious.

Cannon_Fodder, that sounds really nice.  We did laminate in our last house b/c the house has gross hunter green carpet and that is what we had a budget for.  The trimwork took forever, as did cutting around doorways and bay windows.   Then, after we sold the house, the idiot who bought it tore up half the laminate b/c his LaZBoy slid on the laminate, and replaced it with berber!!![xx(]

I figure it's no use painting my current home until the toddlers learn not to write/brush against/eat near walls.

My own personal opinion and taste regarding flat vs. gloss/satin paint.

I live in an early 1950's contemporary home with sheetrock interior walls and ceilings, all smooth finish.  For me, flat latex for the walls and ceilings is the way to go.  Latex paint today is durable and cleanable, and I think flat finishes do a better job of hiding minor roughness and imperfections; gloss finishes tend to highlight imperfections.

For cabinetry & trim I prefer an oil-based paint.  I painted my kitchen cabinets with oil paint 21 years ago, and have not had to repaint since.  (regular dusting & cleaning of course.)  Oil paints do gain a sort of patina over time, more noticeable with neutral shades, but I have found that desireable.

Just my opinions.

quote:

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Originally posted by TheArtist

Behr acrylic eggshell on the walls. Is easy to clean, doesnt give you that dull, dry, chalky look flat does. Is good for every room. Semigloss or gloss for the trim. As for the accent walls. Would just have to see the space and the look you were going for. Interesting that the other walls are white though? And yes, be careful with the red color. The brighter and stronger the red, the more "translucent" the paint becomes and unless you use a proper basecoat color or colored primer underneath, you will be in for several coats. The room I am in now I used a textured stuccoe, then used a "peachy,orangy gold" basecoat then rubbed a cranberry red over it. The effect is stunning, you can get a "color" with layers that you cant get with only one color. Dont be afraid of color, go ahead and do a whole room with it. However, another way to add a pop of color without using the accent wall option is to do a wainscotting. Get some inexpensive trim, go 32" up from the floor, and paint your darker color below that and a lighter, complimentary color above. Another rule of thumb. Whenever you do a color in a room especially a medium to light shade, go at least 2 shades lighter on the ceiling with the same color. Gives a room a more sophisticated, finished look versus just ceiling white, though may do that with a red and certainly not for just an accent wall. Have fun and remember, its only paint.

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And what on earth would youknow about colors and interior painting?  Hmmmmm????? [;)]

I got to see your handiwork in a friends' house out at 111th & Louisville last night.  They may be calling you for more work.  I put in a good word for you, as if you really needed my endorsement. [:P]