Waterboy, what advice would you give boaters/kayakers interested in taking their craft on the Arkansas? What areas to avoid/be careful around on the river in and around Tulsa? Obviously stay away from the dam. My advice is to go heavy on preparation. When I started down this river, there was no Google Maps to prepare me. There were topographical maps available but I didn’t know where or how to get them. Nonetheless, I was in an 18 ft x 8ft flat bottomed boat with lots of horsepower, which was more than capable, and I had years of experience on local lakes and rivers growing up here.
Using a small craft, I would want to have some idea of what to expect. The Google Map shots I have seen were taken when the water was pretty low. You can clearly see the channel of the river, the shoals and the rocky areas. Spend some time getting a feel for where they are. For the most part, the channel is on the river right going downstream.
I carry a medium size dry bag that is well designed for small craft, available at Academy. I stuff it with an extra set of clothes, rain jacket, water shoes, a flare gun, some prepackaged food and a medical kit. Never had to use any of it but still….I put my ID, phone, some cash, etc inside a waterproof baggie and put it near the top of the dry bag. Then strap the bag to the kayak.
Wear a comfortable PFD. If its not comfortable you end up sitting on it which leaves you at risk if you tump over. They make a jacket for fishermen and kayakers that fits loose on the shoulders and is great for holding extra gear. Finally, use a good waterproof sunscreen and get some “croakies” to hold your glasses around your neck and some good gloves to keep from getting blisters. I’ve found that knit/leather weight lifting gloves are cheap and effective.
There are only a few public places to load into the river. Upstream, its Swiftwater Park, Sand Springs Park, and Westbank Ramp (by the Rowing Club). Downstream its 31st and Riverside on the East side of the river and PSO Soccer Fields on the West side. Then possibly the new ramp on the east side across from Turkey Mtn. about 61st. Kayaking, in this area, is where bicycling was 20 years ago. Many parallels.
Watch the water levels and more importantly, the cycle of the river. You can do that by logging onto one of the Corps websites. I use
http://waterdata.usgs.gov/ok/nwis/uv/?site_no=07164500&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060. This will give you the level of the river at the 11th street bridge (SW Blvd for the purists). Remember, that level represents water that was released upstream at the dam 4 hours earlier and which travels at about 5mph. I’ve never been able to find reliable forecasts of release amounts and times, probably for many good reasons. Always let someone know when you’re leaving, your approximate route and when you think you might arrive just like a flight plan. It keeps your friends and family calm. Take a cell phone but don't rely on a cell phone. The mountains may block the signal and you might get them wet.
Once on the river avoid areas with tree branches sticking up or exposed rock. Obvious I know. Swirls of water indicate submerged obstacles. Small ripples indicate shallow water. Indications are not always correct though. Rapids on this river are most obvious below 10,000cfs. I wouldn’t go on the river as a newbie above 25000cfs and even with experience above 40,000cfs. I have, but its an ego thing. A good level is around 4500cfs which equates to 4ft in Tulsa. Unless you have some experience, stay away from “the wave” at the end of the jetty below PSO. I have watched those guys (Tulsa Kayak Club I think) and it looks fun but they wear helmets and know how to turn their craft over and flip back up. That is a skill unnecessary on most of the river.
Beware of bridges. When the water is high and fast, they cause turbulence around the piers and will jerk you around quickly. Try to stay in the center of the span. When the water is lower, you have to beware of debris from previous bridges that were left. Sometimes rebar and concrete are visible or just under the surface and show as whirlpools. The piers also snag trees. Highway 97 bridge, stay in the middle/right spans. Passing through the 244/11th street bridges-count 5 spans from the east bank when water is low. But its not critical, just easier.
Don’t be fooled by shallow water in the middle of the river. If you step out onto some of these shoals, you will sink up to your knees! They also end abruptly with a steep drop. Study the sand bars at low levels and you can see. Stopping on islands is fun. Tread carefully as the wildlife enjoy them too. Turtle eggs, terns, water snakes, even an occasional Coyote all use the islands. Drag your craft out of the water or tie it up to something as the rising water can quickly float your craft away.
Most of the land along this river is publicly owned but inaccessible. However, there is private property, notably petroleum companies and some shoreline along Chandler Park.
Have you kayaked any of the other rivers in Tulsa like Crow Creek or Bird Creek? I remember visiting a friend who lived in a house backing up to Crow Creek near Peoria and he had a kayak in the backyard. He said his dad would take it down Crow to the Arkansas when the water was high enough..No, strangely I don’t spend much time on other rivers or lakes. Lake paddling is boring to me. I have explored along Crow when my boys were younger. I am dismayed at what people put into those creeks. Someday I may float them when they have some water. Problem is that if they have water its likely after a rain when pollutants are 50 times as high and the water is treacherous due to tree fall and debris. Still, it is intriguing. There is a group of folks here in Tulsa who travel around to area lakes and creeks with kayaks. I am too impolitic to be part of any group, but I will find their last e-mail if you’d like.
Hope I didn’t scare you! Call or PM me if you like, I’ll be glad to chat.
