Local Float

[waterboy]

Can we expect a trip report?  And maybe some pics?   

Since you asked.

The trip (from Waterboy's perspective)-
    This was one of the better trips I've ever had down the river. This couple wanted an out of the ordinary adventure and I believe they got one. The weather was perfect, a mild, sunny day with gentle breezes from the South East and temperatures in the 80's. Unusual for late July. The dam had only one gate open that gave us a little push all day long.  Patrick and Kim had little experience in watercraft but picked it up pretty quickly. This aluminum Aero canoe is a great starter vehicle. I was trying out my new 10ft Vapor by Old Town.

Our first challenge came a 1/4mile into the trip where the river narrows and is rocky. It is the first contrast to ones perceived view of this river as a flat, sandy, slow old ditch. It starts conversation. Some herons cackled at us and the small two person kayak with fishermen ahead of us. We talked about the ecology of the river, its place in the universe and how it works. After some mild rapids,  the adventure began in earnest.

As we came near the delta created by the old Shell Creek entrance into the river, I was pointing out how it had created the myriad of islands, ponds and rapids that attract the wildlife. We were anticipating going into a former sand mining area that is a maze of small connected pools when I heard what sounded like fireworks. Only they were popping at a regular rhythm. The water about 20 yards in front of us was erupting into small geysers at each pop. This concerned me greatly as I realized it was gunfire, pointed in our direction. There were two guys in a canoe about a hundred yards in front of us who suddenly pointed their craft towards the bluffs where the popping noises were emanating. I wondered if they knew who was shooting, if it was a confrontation of some sort or just what was happening.

Instinctively, I recommended we follow their lead. By moving in toward the shooter it minimized the chance of him having a good angle to hit us, unless of course that was what he was trying to do. More likely, someone was target shooting and hadn't foreseen where the bullets were landing, or didn't care. That is a danger on this river. Inattention to it means people can abuse it as they hold it in low regard. Part of my purpose is to keep folks knowledgeable about what they have so that they plan for it with insight.

Anyway, we caught up with the other canoe and found out they were sightseeing, just like us, and didn't know who the numbskull was shooting and it had frightened them just as much as us. They had yelled to the guy that they were in his line of fire.  He responded with "Where's your 20?!" We suspect some teenage bravado behavior.  I know where the property is and will relay the story to the owner. Stuff like this happens in the city too,

We didn't have time to contemplate our close call with the Deliverance redneck. This area is really diverse with lots of creek like passages, islands, sand bars and shallow ponds. It is bordered by large hills that highway 64 cuts through high above us on the north and low flatlands that old highway 51 travels along the south where the channel runs. Even though it bears the scars of some human errors, most notably tires that had been used to fortify caving banks but have since washed into the river, it is a postcard location.  

It then turns into  a rather slow, easy float as we approached the Sand Springs island where the old low water dam used to reside. They blew up their dam in the late 80's after numerous deaths, silt build up and very little return on the investment. I explained how the areas we just went through, including this island, would be under 4-6 feet of water when Sand Springs builds their new dam just below highway 97.  The magnitude of that tragedy cannot be measured unless you float that area and see the resulting changes in store. The water in this area is clear and cold having been out of the depths of lake Keystone just a couple hours earlier. That will change.

It took longer than we had expected for the first leg. Patrick e-mailed his friends from the island, took some pics and we headed home. The SS to Tulsa leg had some eddies and a few rapids that we tested our craft with and it gave me time to relay some of the history of the area with some anecdotes from my experiences in my airboat tour business. Its what I call "the skyline tour". The city skyline is beautiful from this vantage point. But there was still some excitement left. We stopped on the refinery islands that were created by the sharp turn of the river around the Waterworks at Newblock Park. We mapped out a strategy of where we would cross the rapids that are formed by a rock ledge that crosses the river there. Its a natural fault line and the river basin drops about three feet downstream. When the water is up, they are noisy but harmless. At this level they are formidable. Large rocks punctuate the crossing and create what look like class 2 or 3 rapids. I usually take my craft to the far west where it is less pronounced. Kim was ready to attack them head on and today so was I. But as we approached, I had second thoughts and attempted to steer them laterally along the fault to a gap where I had always taken the airboat. However, I underestimated the strength of the current and we didn't have time to adjust. Communication failed as well. I kept yelling, "Paddle right!" meaning turn the canoe to the right. Instead, they paddled on the right side of the canoe turning them into the rapids. By the time they did start to paddle on the left of the boat it was too late. At the last moment I yelled, "Hold on! We're going through backwards!"  And we did.

It was scary and I was sure this would be my first time to flip on this river. But they were game, the craft was quite stable and we luckily had found the gap I was looking for. We made it through and laughed out loud. The last surprise was nothing for us after making it through Newblock. The large rocks and concrete debris left under the bridges at 11th street after their construction allowed my light kayak to barely pass over them but the canoe hit one rock square in the front and turned them sideways. By now they knew the craft, counter balanced themselves as the canoe tipped and Patrick powered them into a deeper path.

As we unloaded at the West Bank ramp near the Rowing Club, I showed them how the water quality had seriously deteriorated at this point. Even though there was still good current, the impoundment at Zink lake has caused algae buildup and clouded up the water. It catches and holds everything put in upstream.

Great fun but I am worn out. Total time was over 5 hours.

[SXSW]

Thanks waterboy, sounds like a very interesting trip.  I know you are not an advocate for the low water dams but do you think they could aid in possibly changing people's perceptions of the river and draw more people to it?  

[waterboy]

Possibly. In fact, short term, yes. However, it won't take long for them to sour on the finished product when taxpayer monies have to be used to manage them. We are bucking the trend around the country of taking these dams down. My hope is that someone pays more attention to them than the last time. It doesn't have to be a bad outcome. Its just historically they have been.

[Conan71]

Possibly. In fact, short term, yes. However, it won't take long for them to sour on the finished product when taxpayer monies have to be used to manage them. We are bucking the trend around the country of taking these dams down. My hope is that someone pays more attention to them than the last time. It doesn't have to be a bad outcome. Its just historically they have been.

Have you ever thought of writing a book of your knowledge of the Arkansas?  Your knowledge of it's history, value, the hydrology, and ecology is priceless.

[SXSW]

Have you ever thought of writing a book of your knowledge of the Arkansas?  Your knowledge of it's history, value, the hydrology, and ecology is priceless.

Good idea.  Even a multi-part series in the TW or in a lengthy article in a local magazine would be very informative.

[waterboy]

Well, thank you both for your kind remarks. I wouldn't know where to start. Though I would like to share before I become any more senile.

[Patrick]

I have to apologize for the length of time it has taken for me to get on here and post about our trip.  I needed a day or two to recuperate from our adventure. Factor in a hectic work week and here I am a week after our trip.

Steve did an excellent job summarizing our trip.  My wife and I were celebrating our fifth wedding anniversary and I wanted to plan something special/adventurous.  We both enjoy being outside and seeing as though we are lifelong Tulsans, a canoe trip down the Arkansas is a unique way to see more of our city.

Most Tulsans have a formed opinion about the river - it smells, it is polluted, we should / should not "develop" it.  Whatever your feelings / thoughts / opinions are, if you feel strongly about it, you owe yourself a day on the river with Steve.  At the very least you will get some exercise.  I am sure, though, that you will come out of the experience with a clearer understanding of the river and quite possibly, a better appreciation for our little jewel.

We really had a fantastic time and were very appreciative of Steve's commentary and understanding of the river.  The rapids were quite fun although as Steve mentioned, we went through them backwards and sideways which I believe is not the typical way of handling them.  I blame it all on my wife as she was all for going into the thick of the rapids.  We saw lots of herons and egrets and also caught a glimpse of a bald eagle.  The bald eagle's nest we saw was huge (didn't get a picture).  I was amazed at how clear the water was.  We put in by the dam - the river was crystal clear all the way up to the turn at downtown by the refinery.  At that point, the water clarity was significantly reduced.

Here are some pictures of our trip.  I have a few more but didn't want to post too many.  I have higher resolution versions too if anyone wants a copy.  It is hard to imagine we were in the middle of a city (and river) while taking these pictures.  It was a great time.

Steve - I will send you some more pictures via e-mail.  We have a good shot of you in the kayak.  I didn't want to post it here without your consent - just in case you are really a top secret CIA spy of some sorts, I don't want to break your cover.

To boil it down, the trip was an A+ and time well spent.  It was fun and educational and certainly qualifies as your workout for the day.  Shoot Steve a message and book your trip!

-Patrick

[Patrick]

Skyline picture.

[SXSW]

Excellent photos Patrick, especially the skyline shot!  That stretch of river from Lake Keystone to downtown is really beautiful with the hills to the north and south. 

[waterboy]

Thanks, Patrick. Good pics and my "real" identity is safe so post any other pics you want.

[SXSW]

Waterboy, what advice would you give boaters/kayakers interested in taking their craft on the Arkansas?  What areas to avoid/be careful around on the river in and around Tulsa?  Obviously stay away from the dam. 


Have you kayaked any of the other rivers in Tulsa like Crow Creek or Bird Creek?  I remember visiting a friend who lived in a house backing up to Crow Creek near Peoria and he had a kayak in the backyard.  He said his dad would take it down Crow to the Arkansas when the water was high enough..

[waterboy]

Waterboy, what advice would you give boaters/kayakers interested in taking their craft on the Arkansas?  What areas to avoid/be careful around on the river in and around Tulsa?  Obviously stay away from the dam.  

My advice is to go heavy on preparation. When I started down this river, there was no Google Maps to prepare me. There were topographical maps available but I didn't know where or how to get them. Nonetheless, I was in an 18 ft x 8ft flat bottomed boat with lots of horsepower, which was more than capable, and I had years of experience on local lakes and rivers growing up here.

Using a small craft, I would want to have some idea of what to expect. The Google Map shots I have seen were taken when the water was pretty low. You can clearly see the channel of the river, the shoals and the rocky areas. Spend some time getting a feel for where they are. For the most part, the channel is on the river right going downstream.

I carry a medium size dry bag that is well designed for small craft, available at Academy. I stuff it with an extra set of clothes, rain jacket, water shoes, a flare gun, some prepackaged food and a medical kit. Never had to use any of it but still....I put my ID, phone, some cash, etc inside a waterproof baggie and put it near the top of the dry bag. Then strap the bag to the kayak.

Wear a comfortable PFD. If its not comfortable you end up sitting on it which leaves you at risk if you tump over. They make a jacket for fishermen and kayakers that fits loose on the shoulders and is great for holding extra gear. Finally, use a good waterproof sunscreen and get some "croakies" to hold your glasses around your neck and some good gloves to keep from getting blisters. I've found that knit/leather weight lifting gloves are cheap and effective.

There are only a few public places to load into the river. Upstream, its Swiftwater Park, Sand Springs Park, and Westbank Ramp (by the Rowing Club). Downstream its 31st and Riverside on the East side of the river and PSO Soccer Fields on the West side. Then possibly the new ramp on the east side across from Turkey Mtn. about 61st.  Kayaking, in this area, is where bicycling was 20 years ago. Many parallels.

Watch the water levels and more importantly, the cycle of the river. You can do that by logging onto one of the Corps websites. I use http://waterdata.usgs.gov/ok/nwis/uv/?site_no=07164500&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060. This will give you the level of the river at the 11th street bridge (SW Blvd for the purists). Remember, that level represents water that was released upstream at the dam 4 hours earlier and which travels at about 5mph. I've never been able to find reliable forecasts of release amounts and times, probably for many good reasons. Always let someone know when you're leaving, your approximate route and when you think you might arrive just like a flight plan. It keeps your friends and family calm. Take a cell phone but don't rely on a cell phone. The mountains may block the signal and you might get them wet.

Once on the river avoid areas with tree branches sticking up or exposed rock. Obvious I know. Swirls of water indicate submerged obstacles. Small ripples indicate shallow water. Indications are not always correct though. Rapids on this river are most obvious below 10,000cfs. I wouldn't go on the river as a newbie above 25000cfs and even with experience above 40,000cfs. I have, but its an ego thing. A good level is around 4500cfs which equates to 4ft in Tulsa. Unless you have some experience, stay away from "the wave" at the end of the jetty below PSO. I have watched those guys (Tulsa Kayak Club I think) and it looks fun but they wear helmets and know how to turn their craft over and flip back up. That is a skill unnecessary on most of the river.

Beware of bridges. When the water is high and fast, they cause turbulence around the piers and will jerk you around quickly. Try to stay in the center of the span. When the water is lower, you have to beware of debris from previous bridges that were left. Sometimes rebar and concrete are visible or just under the surface and show as whirlpools. The piers also snag trees. Highway 97 bridge, stay in the middle/right spans. Passing through the 244/11th street bridges-count 5 spans from the east bank when water is low. But its not critical, just easier.

Don't be fooled by shallow water in the middle of the river. If you step out onto some of these shoals, you will sink up to your knees! They also end abruptly with a steep drop. Study the sand bars at low levels and you can see. Stopping on islands is fun. Tread carefully as the wildlife enjoy them too. Turtle eggs, terns, water snakes, even an occasional Coyote all use the islands. Drag your craft out of the water or tie it up to something as the rising water can quickly float your craft away.

Most of the land along this river is publicly owned but inaccessible. However, there is private property, notably petroleum companies and some shoreline along Chandler Park.


Have you kayaked any of the other rivers in Tulsa like Crow Creek or Bird Creek?  I remember visiting a friend who lived in a house backing up to Crow Creek near Peoria and he had a kayak in the backyard.  He said his dad would take it down Crow to the Arkansas when the water was high enough..

No, strangely I don't spend much time on other rivers or lakes. Lake paddling is boring to me. I have explored along Crow when my boys were younger. I am dismayed at what people put into those creeks. Someday I may float them when they have some water. Problem is that if they have water its likely after a rain when pollutants are 50 times as high and the water is treacherous due to tree fall and debris. Still, it is intriguing. There is a group of folks here in Tulsa who travel around to area lakes and creeks with kayaks. I am too impolitic to be part of any group, but I will find their last e-mail if you'd like.

Hope I didn't scare you! Call or PM me if you like, I'll be glad to chat.

[Conan71]

Waterboy, here's a useful link on Keystone Dam hydropower release schedules we use:

http://www.swt-wc.usace.army.mil/power/hydropower.html

[waterboy]

Thanks. Subject to change but a pretty good estimate.

[SXSW]

Thanks waterboy!  I, and I'm sure countless others, really appreciate your posts and your extensive knowledge of the river.  I may have to take you up on the guided float sometime before heading out on my own, I'll let you know. 

Bird Creek seems like a more 'tame' option, and pretty scenic too.  I would think a put-in at Mohawk Park and then down to the Verdigris near the port would be an interesting run.  Like the Arkansas you would want to watch the river level closely.