Bathtub Reglazing

[Conan71]

Any special instructions? You have to use non-abrasive cleaners or anything?

Non-abrasive cleaners only, which really is pretty good wisdom for a tub with it's original finish on it.  Use 409, Fantastic, or the foaming bubbles stuff.  I'll read the list and post if there's anything weird.  They also said wiping down the tub after use is a very good idea.

I think you'll find it money well-spent unless you want to buy my kit from me I got at Lowe's and give it a shot yourself first.

[TheArtist]

They came out this morning, they were done in less than three hours and I'm incredibly happy with the result.

At this point, looks like money very well-spent.  I'll post photos of the "after" soon as I can.  I might also mention, they've been in business for 21 years.

They remembered Artists house very well: "You mean the home near 41st & Yale that looks like a $1mm mansion inside?"

HA!  Apparently they didnt look too closely at the kitchen,,, or the den.  My motto, Live small but well.   

[Conan71]

Finished

[jne]

Looks good!  OK - I plan on calling up to do mine in a few weeks.

[Conan71]

Piss poor photo, cheap camera, low resolution

Before/After shots of the bathroom:

[TheArtist]

Looks great Conan. Love the sink and the checkered border tile too.

[Conan71]

The checkered tile was some glass mosaic I found.  I'll have to post a photo of the bath floor tile, the house is an interesting mix of retro/mid-century modern and mod.  It's a work in progress.

[chris potter]

want to pass along an expensive lesson learned about bathroom magic out of broken arrow.  we got a bait and switch.  they did a phone estimate, did not come to home for estimate first.  when doug arrived, he talked us into putting a sticky back liner down on tub, fiberglass with cracks on floor, after he drilled a few holes and filled underneath with Handifoam to support the structure.  ok job but our mistake was to not **stop**renegotiate**get written bid before work starts**.  he knocked off 10% from what was estimated for complete reglazing, only took an hour, and thought that was fair.  wow 

[Conan71]

I called them out on a warranty issue about two years ago.  The epoxy had separated in a spot roughly 2" in diameter and peeled up.  He claimed it was because I was allowing water to set on the epoxy.  Really?  It's bucking epoxy bucko!  He filled it in by hand, didn't feather around the area.  It eventually peeled again.  Poor initial prep would seem to be the problem.  I simply don't care to be BS'd that something is my fault when science doesn't back up his claim.  I'd still probably use them again, but I don't care for the hip-hopping around when it came to making good on their warranty.  Just mentioning as a potential buyer beware issue.  Other than the 2" spot, it's all still in great shape.  I'll touch it up again at some point, but I will do it next time since it's now a rent house.

[Red Arrow]

I called them out on a warranty issue about two years ago.  The epoxy had separated in a spot roughly 2" in diameter and peeled up.  He claimed it was because I was allowing water to set on the epoxy.  Really?  It's bucking epoxy bucko! 

Water can't sit on epoxy used in a bathtub?  Whew!

[bathroommagic]

want to pass along an expensive lesson learned about bathroom magic out of broken arrow.  we got a bait and switch.  they did a phone estimate, did not come to home for estimate first.  when doug arrived, he talked us into putting a sticky back liner down on tub, fiberglass with cracks on floor, after he drilled a few holes and filled underneath with Handifoam to support the structure.  ok job but our mistake was to not **stop**renegotiate**get written bid before work starts**.  he knocked off 10% from what was estimated for complete reglazing, only took an hour, and thought that was fair.  wow 

Hey there Chris, I hope you're doing well. Just wanted to clear things up and try to change your perspective on my dad, Doug. As you know, my folks have owned the company since 1988, and we don't have any employees. My father is extremely honest, and has never one time performed a "bait and switch", as you called it. We could only give a sight-unseen estimate over the phone based on description, which is what we gave. When my dad arrived at your home, he told you it needed supporting in your shower. What this means is, your shower floor had cracked and was leaking water through the cracks. About 20% of the fiberglass repairs we do need supporting. This is caused from two things: One, every builder we've ever met refused to support shower floors and fiberglass enclosures because they believe the walls can support the floor just fine. When our home burned down, and we had to hire a home builder, we asked him specifically about our upstairs fiberglass enclosure. He told us the same thing. However, being that we have knowledge in this area, we put two bags of sand wedged between boards underneath the f/g enclosure and prevent future cracks. The second reason, is simply because it's being used without any support. Weight doesn't matter, height doesn't matter, a person could be 100 pounds and five feet tall, and over time, the shower floor would still crack. On to the other issue, we do not use any form of HandiFoam. HandiFoam is sold in Home Depot and is merely for filling air gaps in doorways, crawlspaces, windows, etc. It's not meant to support any weight, and it will not support any weight at all. It crumbles under ten pounds.  The foam we use is a two-part, industrial strength foam that spreads and is designed to hold over two hundred pounds per square inch! Needless to say, it is very expensive, even for us, and if my dad knocked off $30 for you that day, then that means to me that he didn't even make $100 off the job. I talked to my dad and remembers you well, and was disheartened to hear you thought he pulled a scam, or bait and switch, on you. We were unable to provide a proper estimate over the phone, and for that, we apologized. But one single review can be devastating to our business, and we would never risk being dishonest even ONCE, on the chance that others would think that about us and not hire us in the future. You see, if we don't work, we can't make money. So we work honestly, we work hard, and we work with integrity. My wife Jessica and I (Jared) co-own this business with my parents, and we plan to be around as long as possible so I can take care of my family the way my father took care of us. If you still feel like you've been dishonestly taken advantage of, I will personally give you a refund. Contact us anytime at 918-355-1974, and I'll take care of you. The only important things to me are that one, you're happy, and two, you walk away knowing my dad is an honest man. Have a great day.

[bathroommagic]

I called them out on a warranty issue about two years ago.  The epoxy had separated in a spot roughly 2" in diameter and peeled up.  He claimed it was because I was allowing water to set on the epoxy.  Really?  It's bucking epoxy bucko!  He filled it in by hand, didn't feather around the area.  It eventually peeled again.  Poor initial prep would seem to be the problem.  I simply don't care to be BS'd that something is my fault when science doesn't back up his claim.  I'd still probably use them again, but I don't care for the hip-hopping around when it came to making good on their warranty.  Just mentioning as a potential buyer beware issue.  Other than the 2" spot, it's all still in great shape.  I'll touch it up again at some point, but I will do it next time since it's now a rent house.

Hey Conan! Sometimes my dad Doug doesn't properly explain things. I'm pretty sure I can back up what dad was saying with science, and let me know if you think otherwise. First, we don't use an epoxy. Epoxy always fades over time, and gray becomes purple, and white become almond. We use a premium glaze that's specifically made for porcelain and ceramic. It's similar to an expensive car paint. Car paint, like our glaze, has to breathe, so to speak. When shampoo are left in the corners of bathtubs, the water that WAS on the them runs down to the tub. Sitting water is called "Water Stagnation", and breeds bacteria, which creates mold and and mildew. This is why caulking turns black sometimes-it's mold growing on the caulking, and it grows well since showers and bathtubs create such humid environments. Back to our product, it needs to breathe and can not remain smothered with water stagnation. Over time, our glaze, as well as house paint, car paint, and anything else paint related, begins to bubble. This is not due to poor prep work, it's from the water damaging the paint and expanding it's size, then as the water evaporates, it shrinks back. If it fails to dry, then eventually the bubble cracks. This is where the real damage occurs: Once the bubble cracks, then water works it's way under the glaze creating havoc and further damage. There is no amount of prep work in the world that will keep any kind of paint down on any kind of surface if the surface is smothered in stagnated water twenty four hours a day. I believe with the prep work we do, and the glaze we use, that we have the best chance for it lasting in any case. That being said, on the back of all of our receipts we include care instructions on how to maintain the glaze. The very first instruction states "Do not rest any spray cans, shampoo bottles, or wet cloths in the corners." Since the FDA limited the use of and banned lead in bathtubs, the original porcelain put on tubs today is considerably weaker than the porcelain of the 1950-80's. So we actually copied our care instructions directly from Kohler Bathtubs. If you buy a brand new bathtub today, the instructions are the same: Don't rest anything wet in one place for any length of time, and use a non-abrasive cleaner to clean your tub. I'm sorry if my pops didn't properly explain this; he's not the greatest when it comes to explaining to a customer WHY it happens-he just knows that it does. If you have any questions or concerns, I'd love to help you. I majored in science classes all through school, and my wife is teacher who is certified for high school and college science. (She doesn't teach anymore, but still. She's a smartie. ) Give us a call anytime at 918-355-1974 if we can answer any questions for you or help in any way. We look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, and have a great day! -Jared

[Conan71]

Jared, thanks for dropping in on the forum.  I understood clearly how to care for the tub and did as your dad recommended:  Only soft cleaners, no abrasives.  I never left shampoo bottles, washcloths, etc. on the finish.  I bought a shower caddy specifically to keep this from happening either by my laziness or ignorance of my house guests.  The area which peeled was about 4-6" from the drain in the bottom of the tub, water would run off into the drain and it generally would stay dry other than spots of water here and there.  I cleaned the tub regularly with foaming bubbles to prevent bacterial growth and film.  That's why I called BS on the dampness issue.  Especially since the warranty repair failed rather quickly in the same area, I assumed it is a preparation issue or I'll even give you credit and float the supposition it could have been an issue with the underlying substrate which was 54 years old when this was originally applied.

I did not bother to take a towel and dry the tub out after each use as I was of the understanding that was not necessary.  I also never take baths so there was never standing water in the tub at any time.

This was from a guide I found on-line and though not yours, I believe addresses all the issues as were explained to me other than waxing it every few months, which I'd never heard before.  I can see a benefit to help disperse water into smaller beads.  Curious if you guys recommend the Turtle Wax approach.

Reglazing Do's & Don'ts. How to care for your newly reglazed bathtub or reglazed tile.

1. DO NOT use the surface for the specified number of days or hours indicated by the refinisher who completed the job. Usually 24 hours
2. DO NOT lay soap, sponges, cloths, bottles or any objects on the finish at any time! Purchase a shower rack instead.

3. DO NOT let a leaky faucet go unrepaired!

4. DO NOT use abrasive cleansers. No S-O-S Pads. No Comet. No Soft Scrub, no razors. NO ABRASIVES AT ALL! Tub cleans easy with spray cleaner and a soft sponge.

5. Here are some good cleansers to use:
Tilex - Lysol Tile Cleaner - Mr. Clean - Fantastic. NO POWDERS, NO ABRASIVES, just a soft sponge.

6. DO NOT use bath mats with suctions underneath. They may pull at finish and trap moisture.

7. DO NOT pick surface dust off with your finger. Any surface dust will likely dissipate in 3-4 weeks with normal cleaning and usage. Waxing also helps.

8. The best way to keep your tub clean is to wipe it down with a towel after each use. You don't have to wipe it dry.

9. Maintain caulking around the tub.

10. Wax tubs once every 4 months with a urethane polish (Turtle Wax 2001) You should polish your bathtub 10 days after it has been refinished.

Get Your Professional REGLAZING Training Video Here!
MORE DO's & DON'Ts
NEVER use bathtub or other glazed surface to clean brushes or any painting related chemicals or materials. Keep Harsh chemicals away from tub. Don't clean or store sharp or abrasive items on surface.

NEVER let workers stand in a reglazed tub with their shoes on. Have them remove shoes & put a soft towel down.

NEVER put or store any items in a tub or finished surface that might damage or cut the surface.

WAX your reglazed tub two weeks after it is done. And once every 1-3 months after. Use regular auto wax and DO NOT OVER BUFF. Start by first thoroughly cleaning the surface then gently wiping dry. Then apply a light thin light coat of wax with a damp cloth using light circular motions. Wipe excess wax with a soft dry cotton towel.

ALWAYS make sure there are no holes or gaps in any grout or caulking in your shower. This can lead to wall damage and a costly repair bill. We can regrout your shower attending to missing grout before we start.

FAILURE to follow the above instructions may will void warrantee.

ALWAYS keep all cleaning materials away from children. wear protective gloves and eye wear

ALWAYS make sure the room is well ventilated &read all manufacturers cautions and instructions. ALWAYS use your common sense, be safe and smart.

Again, I appreciate your explanation, but I cannot fathom why anyone would use a material which does not stand up to moisture to re-coat the most moist surface in a home.

[bathroommagic]

On the list- Tilex is terrible to use. It's terrible on your skin, and even says to use gloves and a mask when using it. So please don't use that (I'm sure you won't, just saying). I totally agree with the wax, and we actually use McGuire's Car Wax, and love it. Side note? Car wax helps remove soap scum. Pretty cool, huh? On your tub specifically, if you are having an issue with it now, why don't you call us and we'll set up a time to come check it out? I'd like to see it, actually, and see if I can figure out what your issue is...strange that the repair didn't hold. Our glaze adheres to itself pretty well, but I do see about once every few years a contamination of some sort in a tub where I've had to dremel out a few millimeters before anything would hold. It's rare, but I've seen it. The material we use is a premium glaze, and at our cost, is $293 a gallon. No one else is allowed to use it, and we've had amazing luck with it. I just went on a job back in October or November around 31st and Harvard area, and did a repair for a woman who dropped a wrench in the tub while swapping the drain. The crazy part? She was 83, doing it herself, and had the original receipt from when my dad did the tub in 1989! Of course, I didn't charge her for the repair. Seeing the receipt from when I was only seven years old at the time was payment enough. Back to your issue, our glaze is the best possible glaze anyone can get. But there is nothing in this world that could stand the test of time when it comes to water. I 100% stand behind our glaze, and I know for a fact there's nothing better to use. That being said, if your issue isn't a water issue, then the moist comment is a moot point. Maybe you do have that crazy contamination I mentioned before. It's like when a doctor sees a really rare disease and doesn't catch it. When it's flu season and there are flu symptoms, you don't jump to other conclusions. I think that's why my dad thought it was from sitting water. Rare contaminations have the symptoms of sitting water, but don't necessarily always act that way. Again-I'd like to see it. It may be something where I beat the crap out it with a dremel and 40 grit sandpaper, fill it in again, and perhaps lay down a permanent, non-slip (good looking) mat, or glaze the area again. If it's a contamination in the porcelain, a mat may be best. If I can see it, I can tell you. Lastly, I really like your Ronald Reagan quote.

[heironymouspasparagus]

Lastly, I really like your Ronald Reagan quote.

Don't encourage him!!  He is in a 12 step plan.... trying to recover from Republicontin-ism!!