Having your driveway done

[HoneySuckle]

Has anyone had to have a new driveway done because of big cracks in the cement? 

I was thinking of having mine repaired (they built it in squares) because of sinking, cracking, and of course, grass/weeds popping up in between.

It seems to be about 3" deep, and according to the guy that gave me a verbal quote, it should be 6" deep and steel rods used below?  Any advice?  Any recommendations?  This is a regualar 2 car garage.

[waterboy]

My advice is get several quotes. Yes it should have rebar. Don't know about the depth. I suppose it depends on the strength of the mix and the topography.

Make sure you only pay enough up front to cover the cost of materials. You want to make sure it drains and doesn't puddle. I was not happy with the job I got 20 years ago and I don't know anyone who has been. Good luck.

[MDepr2007]

With the rate of water breaks in my neighborhood , I'm waiting for the water dept. to do mine 

[Red Arrow]

It's not as pretty as concrete but our gravel driveway never cracks, lets water soak through, and weeds are handled with Round-up.

[patric]

It's not as pretty as concrete but our gravel driveway never cracks, lets water soak through, and weeds are handled with Round-up.

Not an option for city folks.
Anyone remember "grasscrete"?  it was supposed to be permeable concrete grass could grow through.
Drivable surface, but you still had to mow it.

[Red Arrow]

Not an option for city folks.

I expected that was the case.

[HoneySuckle]

Mdpr, I have the water meter in the middle of my driveway (I think it's a meter?) my plumber tells me this is causing my driveway to crack.  Is this true?  He said there was a problem where it was filling up and would cost me quite a bit of money if he had to fix it, so he advised that I call the city about it.  They took about two months to come out and handle whatever it needed.

I see in the other street the city is fixing someone's driveway (lucky devils). 

[Kashmir]

I don't know about driveways, but we stained and sealed our entire back patio (huge, approx 500 sq ft) for around $50.  If you want to stain your patio or driveway I will tell you what we bought to do it so cheap.... for after you pour your new driveway!

[cannon_fodder]

Driveway work on a straight/rectangular driveway is by the square foot.  Ask what depth they recommend (deeper = better.  3" is really skimpy.) and ask what the price would be for XYZ feet.  You will need to specificy tear out and replacement.  Grab a bunch of quotes and go.

Replacement is probably better than repair.  Easier to remove it all, it will match, and you won't have to do the other section in a few years.

[sauerkraut]

A good cement driveway costs a pretty penny, a cheaper way to go is to use blacktop, or just gravel. The thicker the driveway the better... Driveway replacement costs less than a new roof so it's not all that bad.. BTW a good way to go at roof replacement time is to use a metal roof they last forever and are easyer to install. In some places you can lay the metal roof over the old shingles..

[Red Arrow]

metal roof they last forever

Steel roofs are good for about 20 years.  Then they rust.  Galvanized or prepainted, doesn't matter.

[cannon_fodder]

To trek further off topic . . .

The new metal roofs are made to fit the length of the roof from peak to overhang.  You do not cut them at all.  They come pre-enameled and rust treated.  If you use the proper procedure or have a professional install it should outlive the owner. Standard warranties on metal roofs vary from 30-50 years.

The days of corrugated steel overlapping with seems ever 4 feet are long gone.  The days of cutting the crap out of yourself handling them as you try to re-roof a fish house in the middle of Northern Ontario and hoping to God you don't get a horrible infection as you continue fishing and various evening drunken shenanigans for an entire week . . . are probably here to stay.

[waterboy]

Don't be afraid to just replace one section if necessary. That's one reason they are segmented. Considering that materials are a large part of a new driveway, you can save money that way. It will weather to match the rest of the driveway or you can powerwash to match the new. In your case, if the rest of the driveway is not breaking up, it is doubtful that the depth is the cause. Either way make sure you use some sort of wire fencing or rebar in the new part.

For heaven's sake don't use asphalt. It crumbles and breaks up in the freeze/thaw we have here. I know, my neighbor had it on his driveway. It also increases the heat of the surrounding area as it soaks up the sun's rays. It has to be resealed periodically.

[Vision 2025]

A few suggestions points for your project, if not too late.

Remove and replace if in your budget.

Minimum concrete driveway thickness 4", for residential, thickened at the approach to the street.  The finish should be a "light broom" and edges trowled.

Make sure there is good compaction on the sub soil, no loose dirt or sand.  They can rent a plate compactor and it will bounce when the proper compaction is reached.  Also a good idea to wet it down before they place the concrete but don't make it muddy.

#4 reinforcing steel at 18" each way (cross pattern) with the steel set on chairs (important, don't let them lay it on the bottom) these are little plastic supports that lift the steel into the middle of the new slab.  Make sure all steel is clean, no major rust and that it is not touching the soil anywhere.

Specify concrete (cement is just one of the ingredients) with 5-7% air entrainment and minimum strength of 3500# (that is measured at 28 days) or 4000# if the weather is cool.  Also limit slump to 5" they can easily work with this and should not need to add excessive site water to the mix for workability.

They should edge form the slab (can be used lumber but should be pinned so it is good and straight) and install a bunch of grade pins so they can set grade, go look at their previous work to see that it is a good finish.

After placement the driveway needs to be saw cut 1/4 to 1/3 the depth of the slab (CUT, not scored).  For a 2 car standard driveway usually one cut down the middle lengthways and at 10ft centers across it works but there is an art to knowing where to cut with corners and such..  It is critical that the cutting happen within 24 hours of placement, for an early morning placement cut that evening or first thing the following morning.  Plus at the connection to your garage slab or existing driveway and sidewalks they need to install an expansion joint which is black felt board.   If there are penetrations like a meter can I suggest sawing a square around it about a foot or 18" out from it but avoid corners in the cutting if you can. 

After placement you need to properly cure the new concrete, I like to see the finisher spray a non-paraffin curing compound on it or you can wet cure it yourself but that takes a lot of effort this is what greatly reduces the cracking.

Lastly, a couple of days after cutting wash out the saw cuts, don't drive on it for 7 full days and after 3 weeks then caulk the cuts with a self leveling gun caulk for concrete joints, HD and L's have it. 

Also make sure the contractor is responsible for clean up (including the truck wash out) and backfill on the edges and understand who is responsible for grass repair.

ENJOY

Ps. Ask for proof of insurance and payment for all materials and don't make full payment up front... maybe a 20% mobilization payment when they arrive and if they insist up to 50% when ready for concrete and full payment after saw cut, clean up, and correction of any issues.

[Red Arrow]

A friend (really, a friend, not me) had some concrete work done years ago that had something that I believe is called chat in it.  It floats to the surface when the concrete is curing and then eventually chips out and leaves holes in the surface.  How does one specify concrete to not get that?