Large (1acre+) land owners: Liquid weed/feed and killer?

[Mike 01Hawk]

I finally got my 15gal sprayer hooked up over the weekend.

Now I need some generic form of killer to spray my fence line / tree bases.

The sprayer also comes with wands so I can spray my whole yard.  What's a good liquid weed/feed?

Is there a co-op or other bulk type place in Tulsa County/Coweta?  I figure the cost would be thru the roof if I got some name brand stuff @ the big box stores.

TIA.

[Conan71]

I finally got my 15gal sprayer hooked up over the weekend.

Now I need some generic form of killer to spray my fence line / tree bases.

The sprayer also comes with wands so I can spray my whole yard.  What's a good liquid weed/feed?

Is there a co-op or other bulk type place in Tulsa County/Coweta?  I figure the cost would be thru the roof if I got some name brand stuff @ the big box stores.

TIA.

Non road use diesel, about $2.70 a gallon, or pick up a few goats at a livestock auction about $65, $70 apiece.

[Mike 01Hawk]

My wife might frown on the diesel

[Breadburner]

What exactly are you wanting to do.......

[heironymouspasparagus]

Too late for weed-n-feed.  Won't kill everything.
Round up can work for fence line, just be sparing.

Putting around tree base can be fatal for the tree - even though it is absorbed by leaves.  Have still seen trees killed by that crap even when thought leaves were not touched.

Better yet, get the goats.  Don't become like all the other rapers and pilagers out there who just 'spray it'.

[Mike 01Hawk]

What exactly are you wanting to do.......

I have 2.5 acres.

1) I'd like to round up the fence lines, areas the mower can't reach (corners), and bases of my trees so I won't have to break out the trimmer. For this, glyphosate (active ingredient in Round Up) is the way to go: http://www.ruralking.com/41-2-5-gal-glyphosate.html

2) I'd like to run a weed killer all over my yard to kill dandelion, clover, etc.
Assuming this would work, 2, 4-D LV 4: http://www.ruralking.com/2-5-gal-24d-ester.html

3) I'd like to run a fert to help out my bermuda/ fescue.
Dunno what to use there.

Previous owners had TruGreen come out for $120 a pop.  As long as I can get the fert for cheaper, I'll do it myself... which might be a challenge

[heironymouspasparagus]

Round up the edges, but keep the animals away for a day or two.

2 and 3.  Sounds like you are trying to get some grass to feed an animal?  Horse, Cow, goat, chickens, geese or guineas.  Any of which don't need any fertilizer. 

Best way to handle that large a space is to keep it mowed before the weed of choice finishes flowering and goes to seed.  If you have any 'broom', it is probably very yellow about now and this is the perfect time to mow.  Buzz cut it. 
You are trying to interrupt the seed cycle.  Dandelions?  Why would you want to get rid of them?  Normal year, they are the first little bit of color and cheer in the landscape after months of dreary brownness!

If you have white clover you are extremely lucky.  This will fix nitrogen in the soil and will feed the bermuda/fescue later this summer.  Also, the white flowers are feeding the honey bees (clover honey!)  The more clover the better.  It will disappear in another 2 to 4 weeks and the bermuda will start to really go.  Where the clover is will be noticeably more green than where it isn't, all other things being equal.  What kind of person are you listening to that makes you want to get rid of clover??  That is truly psychotic.  Right up there with bagging the grass clippings.

The idea of needing fertilizer is one of those delusional fantasies fostered by - no big surprise - the fertilizer companies.  For a yard, pasture, or hay farm, you really don't need it.  Especially if you have some animals on the land.

When it turns hot, let the grass grow longer.  See OSU extension website for some very good yard information.

[Mike 01Hawk]

HMA or whatever you name is

No animals on my yard, well other than the neighbor's cat every now and then.

I'm doing this solely for aesthetics.  As you can tell, I'm a dunce when it comes to yard maintenance   We do have a sprinkler system set up near the house though.  Basically there are areas of dirt, then areas of crab grass, weeds, etc.  I guess I should be focused on seeding instead of fert/weed control???

[heironymouspasparagus]

Seeding is good.  Sod is better, but obscenely expensive.  If you have some bermuda, keep it mowed low in the spring (1 1/2") and it will spread very quickly as it warms up.  The idea is to keep the weeds you don't want from reproducing.  As it starts to warm, the bermuda will avenge itself mightily for any trespasses by weeds!  Many highway right of ways have an excellent bed of bermuda that just gets mowed once in a while and still look nice, if somewhat shaggy.  You won't want yours growing to 12" tall....

When it gets hot, let it grow longer.  3" through the summer. 

And as always, TRY HARD not to get caught up in the chemical web the lawn sprayer companies would have you enroll in.  It is a sucker bet.  You can have AT least as good a result without all the expense...it may just take a little extra time.  But the results are well worth it.
When earthworms do well, your yard will do extremely well.  The chemicals - anything killer and heavy fertilizer applications - won't let the worms thrive.

Buffalo grass is good, too, but pricey.

I still strongly recommend the OSU extension website.  LOTS of info about yards and any other horticultural topic you may become interested in.

Ok, I will make it easy for you...
I have met David Hillock (co-author) and he is VERY good at what he does.  He really knows his stuff.

http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2299/HLA-6420web.pdf

[Mike 01Hawk]

Thanks for the read.  And thanks for the link.  I was poking around on that site and was completely lost.

[heironymouspasparagus]

Yeah, it's one of those "taking a sip from a firehose" things... plan on making an investment in time to learn what you need.

[PastryPro]

Roundup is some evil stuff. Please read this recent NYT article before even thinking about spraying that crap anywhere.

Farmers Cope With Roundup-Resistent Weeds

[Gaspar]

Roundup is some evil stuff. Please read this recent NYT article before even thinking about spraying that crap anywhere.

Farmers Cope With Roundup-Resistent Weeds

Plants eventually become resistant to almost all herbicides.  Just like bacteria becoming resistant to antibiotics.  No reason to outlaw antibiotics. 

RoundUp is excellent and has a very short soil life.  It is safer than any other herbicide on the market.  It can even be used in aquatic applications to control bloom caused by phosphate pollution.  It is metabolized in the environment and rendered completely inert in a day or so. 

[Hoss]

Roundup is some evil stuff. Please read this recent NYT article before even thinking about spraying that crap anywhere.

Farmers Cope With Roundup-Resistent Weeds

How does that make it evil?  It's some of the most environmentally-friendly of herbicides.  Just because weeds have evolved to be resistant of it, that makes it evil?

Elaborate, please...

[Breadburner]

How does that make it evil?  It's some of the most environmentally-friendly of herbicides.  Just because weeds have evolved to be resistant of it, that makes it evil?

Elaborate, please...

They can't its a typical pre-programed brain-washed response......In regards to the original post start planning to put down a pre-emergent this fall for spring weeds....Then you will also apply another pre-emergent in the late spring.....Also the glyphosate will be perfect for controling the fence lines and such.....If you have a good stand of bermuda it will start taking off once it starts to get hot.....