Global Warming/Climate Change/Global Weirding?

[Hoss]

Don't let that ever get away from you.

Bet yer azz I won't.  They've already tried it once.  I made it clear in no uncertain terms that I would make life for them hell if they did.  That meant loss of potential business for them.  I know many people whom I've referred to this dealer.  They didn't feel like losing the potential business.  They tried to up the price to 29.95.  That's when the swearwords came out.

[Conan71]

I finally put my truck into semi-retirement Thursday before last.  Seems like each vehicle I've owned since the first new car I bought in 1982 7000 to 7500 has been the recommendation.  That's been several Fords, several Hondas, a VW, and now a Hyundai.  I notice though there's a "severe duty" recommendation from most manufacturers for filters and oil of 3000 to 3500.

I had guessed a 2000 to 3000 recommendation prior to the mid-50's as oil filter technology was fairly non-existant to ones made with horse hair.  Air cleaners were oil bath and then oiled wire mesh prior to paper pleated filters.  With the old Harleys I used to restore, oil changes and air filter service were supposed to be about 500 to 1000 miles.  However, pre-1965 on the big twin, excess crankcase pressure was used to spray oil on the primary drive chain (there's a chain which goes from the crank to the clutch hub) and there was a simple drip tube to allow excess oil in the primary chain cover to drip out on the ground.  More or less you simply kept adding oil to the bike.  Harley didn't offer an oil filter until 1947 and that was purely optional for many years.

[Hoss]

I finally put my truck into semi-retirement Thursday before last.  Seems like each vehicle I've owned since the first new car I bought in 1982 7000 to 7500 has been the recommendation.  That's been several Fords, several Hondas, a VW, and now a Hyundai.  I notice though there's a "severe duty" recommendation from most manufacturers for filters and oil of 3000 to 3500.

I had guessed a 2000 to 3000 recommendation prior to the mid-50's as oil filter technology was fairly non-existant to ones made with horse hair.  Air cleaners were oil bath and then oiled wire mesh prior to paper pleated filters.  With the old Harleys I used to restore, oil changes and air filter service were supposed to be about 500 to 1000 miles.  However, pre-1965 on the big twin, excess crankcase pressure was used to spray oil on the primary drive chain (there's a chain which goes from the crank to the clutch hub) and there was a simple drip tube to allow excess oil in the primary chain cover to drip out on the ground.  More or less you simply kept adding oil to the bike.  Harley didn't offer an oil filter until 1947 and that was purely optional for many years.

I remember changing the oil on my dad's old 1963 3/4 ton Chevy pickup.  It had a 283 with an old oil-bath airfilter and the dropin style oil filter.  Weirdness, even for then.

[Red Arrow]

I checked my 1963 Buick Shop Manual (the oldest one I have).  It recommends 60 days or 6000 miles on the oil and filter change.  I guess I just couldn't make myself wait that long. 

[heironymouspasparagus]

61 chevy 283 car had the cartridge oil filter, with a dry air filter.  I think they kept the oil air filter in pickups until 64/65 change over.

My Shovelhead says to change at 2500 miles.  And use HD filter (designed for low volume, high flow rate).  There is an alternate that will fit, but it is for something like an Austin America or something - still a high volume, low flow filter.  Tried them for a while, but didn't really feel "right". 

Have been using the diesel's oil in car, too.  Working well so far - started at 170,000 miles and now at 240,000.  Diesel at 245,000 also.  Biggest point is to get the better filters.  Used to use Fram long ago, until saw a "cut apart" side by side test of the different brands.  Never again.  Some versions are just about like putting a roll of toilet paper in the can.  Their high mileage premium filter is almost viable.  It is almost as good as the low end of the good ones.  (Wix being the most readily available of the better ones.)


Conan,
What oil did you use in the old HD's??  Have been using the HD oil and don't really like that - mainly due to price.  (right at 100,000 miles on the shovel).  Have used diesel oil quite a bit and it seems to do well.  Valvoline heavy duty and Delvac.

[Conan71]

61 chevy 283 car had the cartridge oil filter, with a dry air filter.  I think they kept the oil air filter in pickups until 64/65 change over.

My Shovelhead says to change at 2500 miles.  And use HD filter (designed for low volume, high flow rate).  There is an alternate that will fit, but it is for something like an Austin America or something - still a high volume, low flow filter.  Tried them for a while, but didn't really feel "right".  

Have been using the diesel's oil in car, too.  Working well so far - started at 170,000 miles and now at 240,000.  Diesel at 245,000 also.  Biggest point is to get the better filters.  Used to use Fram long ago, until saw a "cut apart" side by side test of the different brands.  Never again.  Some versions are just about like putting a roll of toilet paper in the can.  Their high mileage premium filter is almost viable.  It is almost as good as the low end of the good ones.  (Wix being the most readily available of the better ones.)


Conan,
What oil did you use in the old HD's??  Have been using the HD oil and don't really like that - mainly due to price.  (right at 100,000 miles on the shovel).  Have used diesel oil quite a bit and it seems to do well.  Valvoline heavy duty and Delvac.

HD SAE 50 in the winter, 60 in the summer, no multi viscosity.  Those are actually pretty good oils and formulated specifically for air cooled engines.  Other key to that was I had a great discount at Rte. 66 HD, so it was less expensive than other off the shelf oils.  

I worked on Pan, Knuckle, and Flat and the occasional Shovelhead or Evo for really close friends.  On late model stuff for customers and myself, I used multi vis.  I use Valvoline 20/50 in my Evo.  I never wanted to get into service work, it's hard enough to make a living in the restoration business without assuming responsibility for other people's lack of common sense and maintenance on their daily rides.

I had some people swear by AeroShell aviation oil, it's ashless and made for air-cooled engines.  No idea how much that costs these days.  If the diesel oils have worked and you still have good compression, stick with 'em.

Edited to add: I'm a big believer in K & N air filters, I even used them in the old J-hook air cleaners unless the owner of the bike was overly freaky on detail- even stuff judges wouldn't see at AMCA events.

[heironymouspasparagus]

Good compression.  Bad electrical.  Leaky - to be expected.  That's how you know when to add oil to a Harley - the dripping stops.

[Conan71]

Good compression.  Bad electrical.  Leaky - to be expected.  That's how you know when to add oil to a Harley - the dripping stops.

Bahahahaha!  At swap meets, if I picked up one of the old sheet metal primary covers and it didn't have a curb scrape under the derby cover, I'd tell them it wasn't original.  Naturally, that would get the eyebrows of the seller to pop up.  "Oh yeah? How do you know that?"  "Simple, the factory curb scrape is missing!" 

What year/model?  Mostly original or rat/chopped?

[Red Arrow]

I had some people swear by AeroShell aviation oil, it's ashless and made for air-cooled engines.  No idea how much that costs these days.  

About $5. to $6.50/qt depending on additives and whatever is going on in the Mid-East.  I bought a case (12 qt) of straight weight 40 with the (extra) antiwear additives (W80 Plus) last fall locally for about $65.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshelloils.php

[Red Arrow]

Good compression.  Bad electrical.  Leaky - to be expected.  That's how you know when to add oil to a Harley - the dripping stops.

HD must have either learned from or taught the British sports car makers how to seal an engine/tranny.

[Conan71]

HD must have either learned from or taught the British sports car makers how to seal an engine/tranny.

And don't forget Lucas Electrics found on most British cars back then, AKA "The Prince Of Darkness"

[Red Arrow]

And don't forget Lucas Electrics found on most British cars back then, AKA "The Prince Of Darkness"

And positive ground rather than negative.  (I know, used to be on some American cars long ago, along with 6V systems.)

[nathanm]

HD SAE 50 in the winter, 60 in the summer, no multi viscosity.  Those are actually pretty good oils and formulated specifically for air cooled engines.  Other key to that was I had a great discount at Rte. 66 HD, so it was less expensive than other off the shelf oils.  

It's no wonder the engines needed a rebuild every five and a half miles with oil that thick.

[Conan71]

It's no wonder the engines needed a rebuild every five and a half miles with oil that thick.

My boss loves to tell the story of a leaky old WWII era flathead his dad traded in to the dealer in Hammond, Indiana.  It leaked so bad, he filled the oil tank with 90W gear lube to help slow the leaking long enough to pass a cursory inspection by the dealer.  Ran fine, but after the bike had cooled for several hours in sub- 20's temps (yep, people rode them year round back then if that's all they had to get around), legend is the dealer just about broke his ankle trying to get that viscous goop to loosen up enough to kick start it and was ready to kill Joe next time he came around the dealership.

I'm sure the story has been embellished over the years, but still a good one nonetheless.

[Red Arrow]

It's no wonder the engines needed a rebuild every five and a half miles with oil that thick.

It thins out pretty much when the oil temp gets up around 200F⁺.