Mechanic - BMW??

[Gaspar]

2006 325i, we got a great deal on it, so I am thinking of selling it and get something else, no warranty, but that didn't bother me to much. 

Thanks for the ideas, I'm hopeful its nothing major and all is fine.  I like to drive it and appreciate the better gas mileage than my sequoia!

What is it doing.  How many miles? I'm fairly familiar with that engine. 

[tulsa_fan]

What is it doing.  How many miles? I'm fairly familiar with that engine. 

Idling hard, almost to shaking and feels like it is slipping some in the shift, I started to drive it to skiatook and got freake don the HWY and came back home.  I had my kids with me.  My husband's driven it around town.  It's got 58k miles and were are still 6k from the next oil recommended oil change.  (the first one since we bought it)  We are taking it to dealership tomorrow to see what they say, and then decide what to do.  I have just been lucky, in the last 6 years, I've probably not put $$ into my cars unless it was routine maintence or replacements (tires, brakes, etc.)  I can't remember the last time I took a car in because something was wrong with it! 

[rdj]

Idling hard, almost to shaking and feels like it is slipping some in the shift, I started to drive it to skiatook and got freake don the HWY and came back home.  I had my kids with me.  My husband's driven it around town.  It's got 58k miles and were are still 6k from the next oil recommended oil change.  (the first one since we bought it)  We are taking it to dealership tomorrow to see what they say, and then decide what to do.  I have just been lucky, in the last 6 years, I've probably not put $$ into my cars unless it was routine maintence or replacements (tires, brakes, etc.)  I can't remember the last time I took a car in because something was wrong with it! 

6,000  miles from next recommended oil change?  Every mechanic I've taken my Bimmer to as told me to bring it in every 3,000 just like any other car.

[Townsend]

6,000  miles from next recommended oil change?  Every mechanic I've taken my Bimmer to as told me to bring it in every 3,000 just like any other car.

My scheduled changes range from 7500 to 8000 miles.  They've been that way since my '97 318i.

[rdj]

My scheduled changes range from 7500 to 8000 miles.  They've been that way since my '97 318i.

I have a '98 328i.  Everyone I've talked to says pay no attention to the auto indicator.

[Townsend]

I have a '98 328i.  Everyone I've talked to says pay no attention to the auto indicator.

Got over 110,000 miles out of it before I sold it (running fine) being attentive to that indicator.

[Gaspar]

Got over 110,000 miles out of it before I sold it (running fine) being attentive to that indicator.

Auto indicators are set to go off at pre-determined service intervals.  I have had several Mercedes and currently have a SAAB that I have learned to reset the indicators in manually.

As for oil, with Mobil One I go 5-7k before a change, and I do the changes myself always!  I have pushed several cars beyond 200k without ever having a friction based repair.  I learned from my mechanic's assistant that many dealerships/quick change places (several where he used to work) will simply use crap Valvoline in place of the oil you actually specify, so I don't trust them, especially when spending the extra cash on Mobil One.

The BMW in question has Valvtronic timing.  Dirty intake (including a dirty butterfly valve) really messes with the valve timing on these models.  It will make it run like an old pickup.  In many cases just changing the filter and cleaning the black gunk off the butterfly valve will make it like a new car, but since it's pushing 60K, you likely have other scheduled maintenance issues.  Butterfly valve is easy to clean, you can look it up online.  It's the big air valve between your air cleaner and your intake manifold.  Be careful, the edges will cut the dickens out of your fingers.  Use  carburetor cleaner on a rag, and get both sides of the valve as well as the inside of the housing. 

I've owned BMWs but I don't like them because much of the design is specifically engineered so that YOU can't work on it.  I don't mean that it's hard, I mean that they actually engineer ways to make simple repairs impossible for the general public.  They also rely on electronic systems for simple processes that would be more reliable and efficient through mechanical processes.  They are fun to drive though.

[Townsend]

I've owned BMWs but I don't like them because much of the design is specifically engineered so that YOU can't work on it.  I don't mean that it's hard, I mean that they actually engineer ways to make simple repairs impossible for the general public. 

Any manufacturer and an O2 sensor.  (Specific tool you must have to get to the sensor.)

[Townsend]

Auto indicators are set to go off at pre-determined service intervals.  

That's incorrect.

Depending on the vehicle manufacturer and the specific equipment used, oil indicators come in two basic varieties: algorithm-based and direct measurement.

Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close to requiring replacement or needs replacing immediately.

Interestingly, with these types of indicators, there are no sensors to detect the quality of the oil itself. Instead they combine data on how many miles you've driven, the temperature variations during that time and data about how much work the engine has performed. Typically, the indicator (monitoring system) will receive such data from the powertrain control module, or PCM, which is the main on-board computer. Engineers have figured out a fairly accurate and reliable way to calculate the remaining oil life this way, without having to actually sample the oil.

Direct measurement oil life indicators measure the condition of the oil -- the opposite approach to the system described above. This method uses sensors to sample the oil and determine its remaining life based on any of the following:

•Conductivity -- how easily electric current passes through the oil (typically, the lower the electrical resistance, the more contaminants are in the oil)
•Mechanical properties -- piezoelectric sensors can tell how thick the oil is by the force feedback it gives when sloshing around
•Soot concentration -- dirty oil's days are definitely numbered
•Presence of water -- water is an impurity in oil, since it hampers the oil's effectiveness and can corrode metal surfaces
Different oil monitoring system manufacturers may use a combination of these measurement techniques. Typically, the information will display as a digital readout on the vehicle's instrument cluster. The display can feature a green, yellow or red-style status bar, with red indicating the "change oil now" zone; it could be a percentage, displaying a text message, something like "40 Percent Oil Life Remaining," or it might just be a light or a message that just comes on automatically when it's time for an oil change.

General Motors estimates that drivers of its oil monitor-equipped vehicles could have two to three times fewer oil changes performed each year. Theoretically, according to GM, if all the GM oil monitor-equipped cars on the road observed the maximum interval for changing oil, instead of the oft-advised every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers), it could result in 100 million fewer gallons of oil being consumed annually. Nonetheless, GM still advises changing the oil at least once a year, regardless of how few miles you put on the odometer.

[heironymouspasparagus]

That's incorrect.

Part of that once a year thing is that if you drive that few miles, all those accumulated nasties from not running the car enough to heat it up to drive out moisture are gonna hurt the engine.  Best all around would be to drive at least 20 miles or so at highway speeds every day of the world.  Extremely low mileage is always gonna be the worst case scenario for the long term.

The 3,000 mile thing is way obsolete for modern engines.  5,000 is easy and 7,500 would be good if you had a good highway mix without a lot of "Ricky Racer" clowning around going on.  I haven't had a car since a 1980 Olds Delta that got less than 200,000 miles and way more.  The Olds would have gone more (engine cratered at 198,000) if the kid driving it had just checked the oil at ANY time in the two weeks the check engine light was shining before seizing up.  Makes ya wanna hate kids!

And I have used Valvoline in each of those cars with excellent results.  Good stuff!  The latest two Mercs were 248,000 and 216,000.  The 216,000 is still the daily driver doing fine.  At 19 mpg, too!!  (Just over 24 when go to long highway trip).  Not bad for a big old mushmobile...

Long story short, I always make sure the oil/filter is changed by 7,500 miles.  And don't use Fram filter - cheapest POS available.  Wix.  Sometimes early, some not.  Don't matter what kind of oil you use - regular or synthetic - you should easily get 200k out of the most engines today.  (Well, maybe except GM...)

[Townsend]

Part of that once a year thing

That wasn't a rec.

[heironymouspasparagus]

That wasn't a rec.

rec - as in requirement?  Or recommendation?

[Townsend]

rec - as in requirement?  Or recommendation?

GM doesn't recommend once a year.  They say "at least do that".

I take you for a Ford guy then?

[heironymouspasparagus]

GM doesn't recommend once a year.  They say "at least do that".

I take you for a Ford guy then?

Yes, should do at least that.

I have had one Volkswagen, one Toyota Corolla, one Honda Civic, two Chryslers, 6 Fords (Ford and Merc), and 14 GM (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, and Chevy), from first - 1961 Chevy to last - 1996 Olds Delta.  Best car I ever had was a 1965 Buick Wildcat.  Wish I still had it.  All of the cars I have owned have given me excellent service, especially compared to the price paid! 

Volkswagen had to have engine rebuild because I didn't know anything about anything then and took out the engine.  The 70 Cutlass needs engine now (at 249,000 miles) because of another kid driver.  Other than that, have only had to rebuild one other - the 1980 Olds mentioned previously that the kid took out for me.

No particular Ford bias.  In fact, I am liking Dodge diesels right now REALLY well.  Older one - 1999 second generation - in spite of the Bosch fuel pump situation.

[Gaspar]

That's incorrect.

Probably right for older GM, and less expensive models.  They typically use what we used to call "Dummy Lights."  One light or indicator to cover multiple things.  Most of the cars I've had have  different lights for service and sensor readings, or in the case of my SAAB and actual readout that tells you what's up. Most of the BMW and Mercedies I've had have one for service and another for check engine. Check engine (or engine icon) is linked to sensors.  The service light (service soon icon) is mileage based and (on older BMWs) annoying as hell (bright!).  I've actually had friends that took a hot paperclip and burned through the plastic on the instrument panel so that they could pop out the service light.

The older BMWs required that you had a technician plug in the diagnostic tool to reset the light but on most of the newer models, you can push a series of buttons and reset them.  Most of the button "recipes" are online now.

My wife has a GM but hers has a readout that tells you what's wrong . . .and is typically wrong.  I've learned to ignore it.  I bought a Tech II on eBay a couple of years ago, and it has saved me many trips to the mechanic when simple stuff goes wrong.